em | san francisco city guide

san francisco city guide

MuseumNetwork.com

[Author’s note: Written in 2000 for a Web site that no longer exists, this guide is, of course, out of date. But it shows how I responded to the challenge of reducing something as complex and multifaceted as a city down into a collection of bite-size morsels (on what I recall was a fairly tight deadline). To anyone who's lived in S.F. a while, it also serves as a reminder of how much has changed during the last decade or so. MuseumNetwork.com (a different site than the one you'll find at that URL now) was a travel publication dedicated to the culturally inclined layperson. The original text of this piece included several additional sections, as well as various practical information (venue hours, public transit, when to visit, and so on), all of which I've excised for brevity's sake. —E.M.]

introduction

SINCE THE GOLD RUSH, with its promise of nuggets in the streets, to recent years, with the allure of beatnik cool, free-speech activism, hippie freedom, radical sexuality, pedal-to-the-metal high-tech innovation, and every type of lifestyle and creative expression, San Francisco has been a magnet for seekers, celebrators, movers, and shakers from all over the world, every walk of life. The city is a culturefest. Tolerant, exuberant, challenging, and fun. Plunge into the crowd on a Chinatown sidewalk and be swept along past pallets of chirping electronic crickets, mounds of intriguing produce, clotheslines adorned with dangling dried fish. Check out Michael Tilson Thomas and the San Francisco Symphony at their wildly successful “American Mavericks” festival—and bring a pot and spoon so you can bang along to composer Terry Riley’s “In C.” Take in the holiday show by the San Francisco Gay Men’s Chorus and watch a drag-queen chanteuse illustrate her song by pulling various items out of her décolleté—the last a full-size aluminum Christmas tree. Duck into the de Young museum and marvel at the lighting effects in a landscape painting by Alfred Bierstadt or William Keith (or simply wander the city’s notorious hills and be stopped in your tracks by some of the most beautiful urban views in the world). Eat an Indian ice cream cone at the Bombay Bazaar in the largely Hispanic Mission District. Feed your eyes and mind at any of the brand-spankin’-new cultural institutions around town: the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art’s Mario Botta–designed home; the Main Library with its distinctive postmodern–Beaux Arts facade; the cutting-edge Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, near a cozy downtown garden. Or seek out one of the numerous smaller venues, from Intersection for the Arts to the Precita Eyes Mural Center. Whatever your cultural bent, whatever your aesthetic sensibility, the City by the Bay has something that’ll meet your needs—and plenty that will go beyond them, broadening your horizons, fueling new enthusiasms.

Back to Index || S.F. Guide Intro | Top Museums | Top Small or Unique Museums | Top Cultural Things to Do with Kids
Top City Walks or Neighborhoods | Top Outdoor Activities | Top Local Events/Festivals | Best Kept Local Secrets

top museums

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art
Known as much for its collections as for its crowd-drawing Mario Botta–designed building (which some liken to an Italian church turned nuclear reactor), SFMOMA features more than 17,000 works of art, including a large selection of paintings by Paul Klee, and works such as Robert Arneson’s “California Artist,” René Magritte’s “Personal Values,” and Henri Matisse’s Fauve masterpiece “Woman with a Hat.” The photography and design shows are particularly adventurous. Make it a point to soak up the architecture—stake out a place on one of the main stairway’s landings and watch the slivers of light from the chrome-plated revolving glass door skitter along the walls of the monumental lobby; climb to the fourth floor and defy gravity on the wire-mesh catwalk (not for the squeamish).

de Young Museum
San Francisco’s oldest public museum, the de Young occupies a prime spot in Golden Gate Park, near the Strybing Arboretum and directly across from the Academy of Sciences and Steinhart Aquarium. These juxtapositions provide a unique opportunity for perceptual games: Take in one of the works in the de Young’s fine collection of American paintings—Georgia O’Keeffe’s “Petunias,” say—then venture to the Steinhart and check out the sea anemones, or walk to the Strybing and see petunias in the “flesh”—your perspective widens. The de Young also features impressive contemporary exhibitions and excellently displayed collections of African and Oceanic art and art of the Americas.

Legion of Honor
The Legion enjoys what is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful settings for a museum in the whole United States; the view of the Golden Gate Bridge is worth the trip in itself; it will snatch your breath away. The collections and exhibitions range from ancient to contemporary works, and though the ancient art may be sparse, there are some unforgettable pieces, such as a gold laurel wreath from Greece, dating from the fourth to third century, B.C.E. The Legion also boasts an engaging selection of decorative arts, including a fine collection of Rodins and an awe-inspiring Spanish ceiling.

Asian Art Museum of San Francisco
Boasting what some believe is the finest collection of Asian art in the country, the Asian Art Museum of San Francisco holds more than twelve thousand works, including bronzes, textiles, sculpture, paintings, jades, and architectural elements from places such as China, the Himalayas, Japan, Korea, Southeast Asia, India, and Iran (though only fifteen percent of the collection is on display at one time). A wine cup made of green nephrite in the shape of a turban gourd will make your eyes thirsty. Currently located next to the de Young in Golden Gate Park, the museum is set to move near the Main Library in the Civic Center sometime in the next few years.

Yerba Buena Center for the Arts
This ultracontemporary gallery and theater complex—directly across the street from the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and adjacent to the pleasant urban oasis that is Yerba Buena Gardens—is devoted to showcasing the cultural diversity of the Bay Area. The annual “Bay Area Now” exhibition attempts to finger the pulse of the region’s visual arts, while other shows (temporary exhibitions change quarterly) have featured themes such as surfing culture and UFO abductions. The Center also offers excellent film and performance programs.

top small or unique museums

South Light Court, City Hall
You’d want to visit San Francisco’s newly renovated, Beaux Arts City Hall anyway—the St. Peter’s–style dome is gorgeous on the outside and stunning on the inside, and the marble staircase that folds down into the lobby is a wonder of lavalike grace and fluidity. But the inaugural exhibit in the South Light Court exhibition space, “Icons of San Francisco, 1905–1955,” is itself worth the stop. You’ll find all sorts of artifacts, from antique toy cable cars and Chinatown gewgaws to the lady liberty who stood atop the original City Hall (which succumbed to the 1906 quake) to beautiful models of some of the city’s most impressive architectural landmarks. This would be a great first stop for your trip.

Names Project
This easily overlooked storefront houses one of San Francisco’s most moving exhibits. The Names Project is the visitors center for the AlDs Memorial Quilt, which commemorates those who have died from AIDS-related causes, and which has been famously displayed on the National Mall in Washington, D.C. You’ll find info on the project here, including short films as well as displays of individual panels from the quilt itself—pieces that are a unique and deeply affecting combination of folk/naive art, political art, and unabashed personal sentiment.

Cable Car Museum
In these days of the digital and virtual, when everything—even the words you’re reading right now—seems to hover in some strangely discomforting and ephemeral ether, it’s nice to get in touch with some good old-fashioned mechanization. This is the place. Along with photos, artifacts, and various incarnations of the famous cars themselves, you get to see the massive flywheels spooling the underground cables that quite simply (and quaintly) drag the cars up San Francisco’s infamous inclines.

Museum of Craft & Folk Art
Located in the extensive Fort Mason Center and surrounded by theaters, workshops, and other galleries (explore!), the Museum of Craft & Folk Art features contemporary craft, American folk art, and traditional ethnic art. Recent shows have included “Papua New Guinea: Spirits and Artifacts,” with basketry, masks, shields, and musical instruments, and “The Daily News: Newspaper Art of Gugger Petter,” featuring weavings made from the entire Sunday paper.

Musée Méchanique
Fans of the Brothers Quay and/or Tim Burton, and maybe even Survival Research Laboratories and Joseph Cornell, will find plenty to be entranced by at this museum of old coin-operated arcade games: elaborately ornamental stereoscopes containing sepia-toned images of the 1906 quake, a fortune-telling Royal typewriter, spooky instrument-playing monkeys, mechanized ballroom dancers, and other such quaint/macabre delights. The Musée is located beneath the Cliff House restaurant near the Camera Obscura, with a spectacular view of Ocean Beach. Bring plenty of quarters.

top cultural things to do with kids

Randall Museum
Paradise for curious kids, the Randall Museum packs a lot into a tight space. The intimate Animal Room features a see-through beehive and a varied selection of critters, some rescued from nearby parks. There’s also a petting zoo. And the hands-on angle doesn’t stop there: You’ll find woodworking and ceramics studios, an environmental learning garden, and a plethora of classes focusing on history and nature. (The surrounding area—Quarry Hill—is perfect for little hikers and offers a great view of San Francisco’s neighborhoods. See "Top City Walks or Neighborhoods.") Be sure not to miss the enormous Costa Rican cockroaches!

Exploratorium
Your kids will find all sorts of buttons to push, levers to pull, peep holes to peep, and more at this highly interactive science museum. A favorite exhibit is the Tactile Dome, wherein one navigates a pitch-dark maze, encountering various shapes and textures along the way (not to mention chutes and ladders). Recent large-scale shows included an in-depth look at frogs, and an exploration of anatomy that featured a performance of a man “dissecting” himself. A bonus: The museum is located inside famed local architect Bernard Maybeck’s not-to-be-missed Palace of Fine Arts.

Hyde Street Pier
Adults and children alike will enjoy exploring the old ships here: the C. A. Thayer, a schooner built in 1895; the Balclutha, a square-rigged, three-masted sailing ship (1886); and the 1890 steam ferryboat Eureka. Grown-ups can check out the exhibits and photos and admire the craftsmanship of these vessels (they just don’t make ’em like that anymore), while the kids play Captain Hook. Part of the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park.

Zeum
Pronounced “ZEE-um,” as in “museum,” this brand-new art and technology center for kids eight to eighteen boasts an Artists Studio for exploring drawing, painting, sculpting, and model making; an Animators Studio with a digital easel and an animation stand; a Production Lab for video and digital production; and a Learning Lab for all sorts of computer activities. Zeum shares the Rooftop at Yerba Buena Gardens with a vintage merry-go-round, a bowling alley, an ice skating rink, and a great playground complete with hedge maze. And the San Francisco Museum of Modem Art and Yerba Buena Center for the Arts are just a stone’s throw away.

California Academy of Sciences/Steinhart Aquarium
The oldest scientific institution in the West, the Academy sports all the things you’d expect from a solid natural history type museum: an impressive hall of insects with all manner of iridescent bugs; life-size dioramas displaying animals in their natural habitats; lovingly crafted models of the solar system. And while all this is indeed engaging, the gem here is the Steinhart Aquarium, one of the most diverse collections of sea life in the world: fish with transparent flesh, fish that emit electricity, wise old fish that look as if they’ve been around since the dawn of time. The Fish Roundabout is a particular favorite—a swirl of blue, schooling swimmers that sweeps by like a metallic curtain—as is the Swamp, a reptile exhibit that takes you from an awesomely toothsome alligator sunning on a rock to diminutive and demonic-looking mud puppies hiding in the shadowy depths. Feeding time for the penguins is another big draw.

top city walks or neighborhoods

Fisherman’s Wharf
Most locals would tell you to avoid Fisherman’s Wharf at all costs, owing to its horrible tourist-trap qualities, but if you stick to the water and refrain from looking over your shoulder at the infinite T-shirt stands and the Ripley’s Believe It or Not Museum, you may just get a taste of what maritime San Francisco was once like. Start at lunchtime near Pier 39, ignoring it, and head west along the water. Take in the view of Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge. When you reach the Fisherman’s Grotto restaurant, succumb to your tourist temptations and buy some clam chowder in a sourdough-bread bowl at one of the sidewalk stands. Get it to go, and while you wait, check out the bright red crabs for steaming. Now look for one of the passageways that run beneath the Grotto, and follow it out to the little marina. Enjoy your lunch while looking at the boats and listening to the chiming of their tackle. When you’re finished, head toward the street and continue west past a couple of nautical shops to the Hyde Street Pier (see “Top Cultural things to Do with Kids”). You can pony up the modest admission fee and check out the vintage ships, or just visit the excellent gift shop/bookstore (ask the clerk to put on one of the sea chantey CDs). Continue on along the little beach at Aquatic Park (in 1907, Houdini escaped from chains while submerged in these waters) to the marvelously streamlined National Maritime Museum. Be sure to stop in for a visit—on the way back to your starting point, you’ll have the memory of plenty of old photos in your head, and as your imagination multiplies the masts of the Hyde Street Pier’s Balclutha by the hundreds, you’ll see the bay as it was during the Gold Rush.

The Castro to the Haight via Quarry Hill and Buena Vista Park
This walk will give you a glimpse of one of San Francisco’s most exuberant neighborhoods, along with not one but two impressive views. It requires some climbing, so bring willing legs. Take one of the vintage F Market streetcars away from the Ferry Building toward the Castro. Hop off at the end of the line, near the Twin Peaks bar. Turn the corner the bar is on and head toward the Castro Theater. Stop into the little candy shop with the good fairy above the door. Say the following out loud: “Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore.” Continue on toward the theater; if you’re lucky and ask nicely, one of the employees may let you have a peek into this gorgeous vintage movie palace. A bit further on, you’ll encounter Cliff’s Variety. Definitely take a look inside, but be careful, you could easily while away the whole day browsing here. Continue past 18th Street, and cross to the other side of Castro when you see the Hortica garden store. Check out the lovely back area; this is a perfect example of the residential-backyards-as-common-park idea dreamed up by the clever architect Daniel Burnham and present throughout the city. Continue back along Castro, window shopping as you go, cross Market, and head up the hill to 16th Street. Turn left, and walk all the way up until you come to the little staircase. Climb it, head across the small street and up past the tennis court into the chaparral. Veer right and follow the little dirt road up and around in a hairpin turn. If you look over your shoulder, you’ll see the side of the Randall Museum (see “Top Cultural Things to Do with Kids”). Continue on until your breath leaves your body as a result of the sudden view. Look for the diagonal of Market Street, and if there are locals around, ask them to point out the various neighborhoods spread at your feet. Now turn around and head up toward the top of Quarry Hill. You can climb all the way up to the rocks, or veer right and head straight past the dog park. Exit through the dog park, turn left on Roosevelt Way and follow it uphill to Upper Terrace. Turn left and continue on until you come to Buena Vista Park. You want to climb one of the dirt pathways up to the top of the park and take in the sweeping view of the city and the bay. On a clear day, you can see the Farallon Islands. Also, see if you can pick out the top of the Golden Gate Bridge beyond the green carpet of the Presidio, and in the foreground look for the twin-steepled church of the University of San Francisco. This is easily one of the city’s most beautiful views. Now continue, dropping down along the opposite side of the park and veering left into the huge grove of trees. Continue on down, heading right until you emerge on Haight Street. Turn left into the Summer of Love.

The Civic Center
San Francisco’s Civic Center boasts the finest collection of Beaux Arts buildings in the United States, and now’s your chance to soak up the architecture (and some of the smaller pleasures of historic structures). Start at the intersection of Fulton and Franklin Streets, and walk toward City Hall along one of the two tree-lined paths between the Veteran’s Building (on your left) and the War Memorial Opera House. When you reach Van Ness Avenue, be sure to turn around and appreciate the two buildings you’ve just walked past. Now head to the Veteran’s Building; it houses the San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery, which is dedicated to showing the work of emerging Bay Area artists. When you’re through there, cross Van Ness and enter City Hall. Note the old brass lock on the old mailbox to the right. Note the glass chute for letters on the left. If you see a letter drop, it’s good luck. Continue on until you emerge beneath the dome. Spend some time examining the pattern of rosettes and rectangles, then head upstairs so you can look down on the glorious main staircase. When you return to the first floor, you can visit the exhibit in the South Light Court (see “Top Small or Unique Museums”). Now head out the opposite side of City Hall into the Civic Center proper. Take in the European sweep of this huge plaza, then head right, cross Grove Street, and see if there’s anything interesting in the windows of the small brick building to the left of the vacant lot. There usually is; the building is used by the Arts Commission as a space for site-specific works. Continue on across the plaza to the new Main Library. You can end your journey there, with a good solid explore. Its interior holds many surprising design touches. Be sure to visit the gallery in the basement, and the one on the top floor. You might also check out the library's San Francisco History Center, where you’ll find Dashiell Hammett’s typewriter, among other goodies.

Coit Tower/Filbert Steps
We’ll start at one of San Francisco’s most well-known landmarks and journey through what may well be its most beautiful “neighborhood.” The view from Coit Tower requires no superlatives; it speaks for itself. South of the tower stand the buildings of the Financial District, along with the Bay Bridge stretching off to the left toward Yerba Buena and Treasure Islands. Southwest are Nob and Russian Hills (including a straight-on view of crooked Lombard Street and its flowerbeds and a look at the Art Institute with its interesting contemporary addition). To the north and northeast: the Richmond Bridge way off in the distance, and the campanile of UC Berkeley just rising above the East Bay. And finally, to the north and northwest, Angel and Alcatraz Islands, Sausalito, and the Golden Gate Bridge, with the vintage ships of Hyde Street Pier in the foreground. But the view is just one reason to be here. The tower itself is impressive of course, but the WPA murals it houses are the real treat. Spend some time with these scenes from Califomia life circa the ’30s. You’ll discover many clever details in the paintings, including a light switch disguised as an observatory. Pay particular attention to the titles on the spines of the library books; you’ll get a sense of the political leanings of the WPA artists and the Roosevelt era. Once you’re satiated, exit the tower (you can pay to go to the top if you want, but the view won’t be all that much more striking). Head down the stairs to the parking lot, turn left and follow the sidewalk around and down the hill as far as you can go (you should reach some stairs to your left just as the street cuts to the right to hairpin around the tower; look for the Filbert Street sign). Head down the stairs to Montgomery Street and look for the cardboard cutout of Humphrey Bogart in the window of the handsome Art Deco high-rise (the building was used in the film version of The Maltese Falcon). Cross Montgomery and continue down the staircase into 19th-century San Francisco. These are the lovely, wooden Filbert Steps, along which sit some of the city’s oldest houses, nestled together amid trees and gardens. Be sure to stop into the garden on the right as you head down the steps (keep an eye out for the big fire hydrant just inside the gate); it looks private, but you’ll have no trouble. And take a moment to explore Napier Lane. Once you reach Sansome Street at the bottom of the steps, you can cross and explore landscape architect Lawrence Halprin's beautiful Levi's Plaza, or turn left and walk to Greenwich Street, where you’ll turn left again and head up the Greenwich Steps. Though not as breathtaking as Filbert, they have their own charm. Walk up to Montgomery, take a look at Julius’ Castle, and continue up the steps back to Coit Tower.

Mission Dolores to Valencia Street
Not long ago, Valencia Street marked the front lines of the Mission District’s struggle against gentrification, separating this Hispanic and bohemian part of town from the more “yuppified” Noe Valley to the west (these classifications are simplistic of course, but they help give a rough idea of the dynamics). At this point, there are no front lines, as the Internet explosion has steamrollered virtually every part of the city. This walk will take you from San Francisco’s oldest building—the institution for which the Mission is named—to one of its newest hot spots, where you’ll be able to get a small glimpse of the pros and cons of gentrification. Start at Mission Dolores at 16th and Dolores. San Francisco’s first mission was founded five days before the signing of the Declaration of Independence in 1776. Its four-foot-thick adobe walls have withstood four major earthquakes. A visit to the chapel is worthwhile (look for the ornamental painting done by the native Americans of the time), and the cemetery is a must; The names, dates, and other information on the headstones begin to paint a picture of the struggles endured by early settlers. From here head east on 16th Street. You’ll encounter a smattering of interesting shops and restaurants, which will become a flurry by the time you pass Guerrero Street. Adobe Books on the north side of 16th, and Café Macondo on the south give a sense of what the bohemian Mission was like pre-Web, while the Mexican market at the southwest corner of 16th and Valencia gives a look at the Hispanic side (which still exists to a large extent along 24th Street between Potrero Avenue and Mission Street). Note the location of Ti Couz, a taste of the newer venues. From here head south up Valencia on either side to 24th Street and return on the opposite side. You’ll encounter more interesting shops and boutiques—some trendy (Paxton Gate), some throwbacks to the area’s former, low-rent days (Bombay Bazaar)—then you can shake a stock option at, and you’ll see the homeless right up alongside young and moneyed dot-commers. This is present-day San Francisco.

top outdoor activities

Golden Gate Park
No visit to San Francisco would be complete without a trip to Golden Gate Park, which boasts far too many special spots and activities to list here. You can rent a pedal boat on Stow Lake and lazily make your way around Strawberry Hill; visit one of several excellent museums—the de Young, the Asian, the Academy of Sciences (all listed elsewhere in this guide); sun yourself and people watch near the Conservatory of Flowers, built in 1878 and modeled on the Palm House at London’s Kew Gardens; listen to the saxophonists who practice in the park’s pedestrian underpasses; watch the wheeled armada on Sundays, when the main road is closed to cars and wide open for roller skaters and bicyclists. The Japanese Tea Garden is a must, as is a wander in the Strybing Arboretum and perhaps a ramble through the park’s less manicured west side, including a stop at the Buffalo Paddock.

Ferry to Sausalito or to Tiburon, Belvedere, and Angel Island
In your rush to enjoy the City by the Bay don’t overlook the Bay by the City. A short ferry ride from Fisherman’s Wharf to the quaint and classy (if somewhat touristy) Sausalito or to Tiburon gives you a heady blast of ocean air and fantastic views of San Francisco, Alcatraz, and the Bay and Golden Gate Bridges. From Tiburon you can walk west to the beautiful town of Belvedere—vaguely reminiscent of the Italian Riviera—or take the charming little ferry to Angel Island, which seems to be adrift in an earlier, more rustic time and features several moving historic sites, including the old immigration station that gave the island its reputation as the “Ellis Island of the West.”

The Golden Gate Bridge
There are essentially two different walks you can take across this famous bridge: the fog version, and the nonfog version. Unfortunately, you don’t usually have a choice. But fortunately, both versions are spectacular and well worth your while (and sometimes you get a little of both). On a clear day, you’ll have a fantastic view of San Francisco and the bay and oftentimes the chance to watch a huge freighter chug past directly below you. On foggy days, it’s as if you’re crossing a bridge to the underworld or some other ethereal realm: the foghorns moan and the spectacular moderne towers of the bridge shoot skyward, only to dissolve into nothingness. The bridge is 1.2 miles across, and the walk takes about an hour round-trip. Be sure to check out the cross section of cable on display outside the Visitors’ Center.

Mission District Murals
Though beleaguered by the gentrification that’s accompanied the Web boom and the dot-economy, the Mission remains San Francisco’s premier bohemian outpost. A good way to get a feel for this largely Hispanic—though increasingly yuppie—neighborhood is to take the Precita Eyes Mural Arts & Visitors Center’s eight-block walking tour, which takes you past forty murals by Mexican-American artists and other residents. Or you can pick up a map and a mural checklist at the center and set out on your own. Wander east off the route near 17th Street and keep an eye open for the bogus “artist’s live-work lofts” (actually condos incognito—the developers get around certain requirements that way) that are springing up like a virus and pushing the actual artists out of the city.

Cable Cars
Take the Powell-Hyde line (look for “Hyde and Beach” on the front of the car) and avoid the Powell-Mason line (“Bay and Taylor”), unless, of course, you have time for more than one ride. Start at the turnaround at Powell and Market Streets, and try to sit—or even better, stand on the “running board”—on the right side of the car. You’ll get a great look at the Bay Bridge when you cross California Street, a nice view of Lombard (the “crookedest street”), and an unbelievable view of the bay and the Hyde Street Pier as you charge down the very steep last bit of Hyde. Make sure you have a jacket just in case, and don’t lean out too far or you may wind up on the grill of a passing truck.

top local events/festivals

Bay to Breakers
In this marathon unlike any other, San Francisco wears its infamous freakiness on its sleeve for seven-and-a-half miles from the Ferry Building downtown out to Ocean Beach. Some of the runners are serious, some are in wild costumes, and some, quite simply, are naked. There’s a related event sponsored by the Squid List (see “Best Kept Local Secrets”) called the Salmon Run, in which marathoners dressed as fish run against the flow of the main race, or “upstream” as it were. The Breakers ends with a party in Golden Gate Park. The race takes place the third weekend in May.

Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, and Transgender Pride Celebration
You can feel this one in the air; it’s the largest celebration of its kind in the United States and probably far and away the most flamboyant. The centerpiece is a huge parade down Market Street, during which the whole thoroughfare is converted into a giant rainbow flag. But a number of related events take place as well, including dance parties and performances of all kinds. One of the main activities though is people watching, and you’ll find more than enough colorful characters to keep you busy. You know you’re a true San Franciscan when you can see a man walking down the street in nothing but a pair of crotchless leather chaps and not blink an eye. By the time this celebration is through, even the out-of-towner will have had the chance to claim that distinction. The celebration takes place every year in late June.

Halloween in the Castro
An absolutely amazing display of human creativity, this spontaneous street fest brings a stunning cross section of this diverse city together at the intersection of Market and Castro to show off their homemade costumes, groove on one another’s ingenuity and humor, lose themselves in fantasy identities, and dance in the street. You’re likely to see just about anything here. Avoid the “official” (read: commercial and stuffy) celebration in the Civic Center—some residents had complained, and the city tried to shift things away from the Castro; the locals would have none of it. It’s best to walk or ride Muni to the event; you’ll be part of an impromptu parade, and it’s impossible to get a cab anyway.

Dia de los Muertos
The highlight of this observance of the Mexican Day of the Dead is the celebration of life procession that winds through the Mission and ends up at a park full of homemade altars. A number of participants—many of whom are local artists—spend a lot of time preparing their costumes, most of which revolve around the traditional skeleton motif. But anyone can join in the procession, costume or not, and you really should; it’s one of the most deeply solemn occasions in the city. Everyone seems to get it, though each may have his or her own personal way of remembering the dead. Bring a candle, photos of departed loved ones, sage to burn, a small shrine to carry if you wish. The observance takes place in early November.

Sing-It-Yourself “Messiah”
The title says nearly all you need to know about this popular holiday event. Various conductors direct the audience through a rendition of Handel’s “Messiah” at Davies Symphony Hall. After all, the divine is in each of us. The event takes place in early December.

best kept local secrets

Headlands Center for the Arts
If you didn’t know it, you’d never guess that inside several seemingly out-of-commission old army buildings at Fort Barry in the Marin Headlands (just across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco) is a gorgeously designed, ultracontemporary collection of artists studios complete with a performance space. The core of this community is the Artist-in-Residence program and the Affiliate Artist studio rental program. The Center also hosts a variety of public events, including a quarterly open house and numerous cutting-edge performances. And the beautiful natural setting alone is worth the trip.

The Café at the Art Institute
Located on Russian Hill, just north of the famous crooked stretch of Lombard Street, the Art Institute is housed in a lovely old Spanish style building with a tree-filled courtyard. A contemporary addition to the structure juts off the back like the hull of a ship, and on deck (if you will) is the café. It features a fine view of the bay, great prices on a variety of interesting food, and of course, a collection of art-student diners that makes for fun people watching and eavesdropping. Wander through the school, check out the displayed artwork, breathe in the smell of oils, dream of being a painter, and be sure to visit the Diego Rivera Gallery, with its mural painted by the master himself (and featuring a charming self-portrait/cameo appearance).

Specs (The Adler Museum)
You’ll find this curious and wonderful little bar at the end of a tiny alley across the street from City Lights Booksellers in North Beach. It was opened during Prohibition, the owner filling it with Native American artifacts, military flags, and other items in order to pass it off as a museum. There’s still plenty to see in the cozy space, including scrimshaw, old police reports, and many other strange knickknacks.

San Francisco Columbarium
An anomaly in its nondescript Richmond neighborhood, this impressive copper-roofed, Neoclassical rotunda was originally part of the long-gone Oddfellows Cemetery. It’s now run by the Neptune Society, a cremation organization, and inside you’ll find an elaborate interior complete with stained glass, plenty of plaster filigree, and four levels of niches for remains. Some of the niches are decorated by friends and family in very personal and idiosyncratic ways.

The Squid List/craigslist
San Francisco is the birthplace of Burning Man, the whacked-out art/weirdness fest that takes place each summer in the Nevada desert, and many of the event’s craziest participants live here. A good way to keep up with their off-season shenanigans is to subscribe to the Squid List and receive event listings via e-mail. Many locals use craigslist as an essential online/e-mail resource for job and apartment listings and classifieds. It features great offbeat events listings too. +